Letter from Exmoor: The Exmoor Beast

Gary’s account of the popular cycling event, which took place this weekend, was first published on his blog here.

Exmoor Beast 2013…………or “In the darkness at the dances in the school canteen”

I’m normally only awake at 5.00am when I’m at work or getting ready to go to work but this Sunday I was eating my Weetabix and getting ready to drive to the Exmoor Beast sportive which was starting in Tiverton this year. I for one liked it when it was based in Minehead because it meant a five minute roll down to the start. At least driving over the moors gave me an idea on what condition the roads were in which was covered in debris, apparently there was a storm, I slept through it, other aspects of my life resulted in no sleep the night before.

It was very dark when I got parked up at the school in Tiverton, the last time I was hanging around a high school in the dark was back in my schooldays lurking around the school disco. We never had proms in my day mainly because I lived in a northern industrial city and we weren’t the kids in America. I registered in the gym were they told me the start was delayed until 7.15 due to the gloom, checked my helmet tag and bumped into Andrew who was doing some photography for The Western Morning news. I then bumped into Chris and Jennifer who said Guy was also there as I made my way back to the car, Chris cheerily reminded me what fun it must be to drive thirty miles to ride back past my house, yeah, cheers! As I thought I had some time to kill I sat in the car and considered going back to sleep only to hear the PA calling the riders to the start and starting the briefing. So a I quickly threw on my  far too warm should have left at home jacket and made my way to the start. I shuffled into the second pen but couldn’t see anyone else I knew except Guy who was in the first pen and set off before I could say hello, he was wearing shades though so I doubt he would have seen me.

So just after 7.00am I set off into the dark which was quite a novelty for me, I was glad some people had really good lights so I sat behind them. This first half of the ride was pretty new to me and I quite enjoyed the gentle climbs up around Bampton and Morebath and past Wimbleball Lake. It was warm, I was warm and overdressed for the occasion and with just one heavy shower was a bit annoyed with myself for my poor choice of cyclewear. Perhaps I should of worn a shirt, jeans and wellies like one bloke and ridden my mtb for one hundred miles, well done to you for putting us Lycra lovies to shame.

I like the descent down to Timberscombe but I knew what to expect as I normally ride up it (?) I was slightly worried by the over confidence of one rider in front of me who insisted on riding down no-handed, bloody show off. I was soon in Dunster and the first feed stop, I only had a banana and I probably should of had more and was about to get on my way when Chris and Jennifer rolled in. I thought it rude not to say hello and also bumped into one of my workmates, Carl, who was doing his first sportive although he is a seasoned cyclist. Off we went again, past my house, sort of, without first nearly becoming victim of a water bottle incident and it was my mates bottle!

We were soon at the foot of the climb up and over Dunkery. I’ve tried it before and failed miserably and guess what I did again. It doesn’t matter what gearing or bike you have it’s about your head, heart and lungs and I had none, nothing there I even felt like turning tail and going home. I limply persevered and did the hill by instalment, ride, stop, ride a bit more until I got over the thing. I didn’t think anyone would wait for me as I was taking so long and quite rightly they didn’t. They got over it though and was quite rightly happy and they deserve to be in a happy place once in a while 🙂 It was very busy on Dunkery with horsey types and weekend warrior downhillers getting a lift up with a Land Rover and trailer. Note to driver of said Landy, don’t beep your horn at cyclists struggling up a hill you should know better! So I carried on alone again but not after blowing up big time as I rode up from Luckwell Bridge, if I was a car they would probably say my big end had gone. The legs were turning but not a lot happening, I just told myself to get to the split point and have a breather and eat something. I nearly missed the split point I was in such a stupor, another sixty hilly miles would not be a good idea.

I stopped, ate something and got on my way, twenty odd miles to the finish, head down and just get it done. I passed the odd cyclist and many passed me all far too quick for me to jump on with. I finally managed to jump onto the back of a little group in the last few miles and got a tow to the finish. I like the finish, inside the gym, name announced and a free tankard to fill with ale and a friendly face as Carl said hello. I chucked the bike back in the car and grabbed my change of clothes and made my way back to the gym where Chris and Jennifer were enjoying their ale after a good ride around Exmoor. We sat and chatted and I got changed in lovely warm changing rooms before heading off home the way I had just ridden, at least I beat the rain if little else.

I think I might have preferred last year’s route but I’m probably only saying that because I could ride most of it. Last year I took over six hours for sixty two miles this year albeit a different route I did sixty six in five and a half. I should be pleased with that but I feel slightly disappointed with myself, just one of those days……

Time for an Exmoor Adventure

 

 

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Autumn courses:

– MBLA Trail Cycle Leader Assessment – Fri 27th Sep, Fri 22nd Nov, £75pp. 

– Introduction to White Water Kayak Course – Sun 6th Oct, Sun 24th Nov, £65pp.

– NNAS Bronze Navigation Course – Thu 31st Oct & Fri 1st Nov, £85pp.

– BCU 2* Kayak & Canoe Course – Sat 2nd & Sun 3rd Nov, £125pp.

– BCU 3* White Water Kayak Course – Sat 9th & Sun 10th Nov, £120.

– Level 1 Mountain Bike Skills Course – Sun 17th Nov, £50pp.

– MBLA Trail Cycle Leader Training Course – Sat 23rd & Sun 24th Nov, £140pp. 

– NNAS Silver Navigation Course – Sat 30th Nov & Sun 1st Dec, £85pp. 

 

For further details, check the website or send an email to info@exmooradventures.co.uk

 

101 Exmoor Adventures Top of Dunkery

Seaborne

Sea kayaking with Exmoor Adventures a few days ago - enjoying the glorious Exmoor weather!

Sea kayaking with Exmoor Adventures a few days ago – enjoying the glorious Exmoor weather!

Letter from Exmoor: Fun Sized Fish

Wow, this weather is incredible.  Not so good for the fishing so it may seem, but in fact there is great sport available, especially on the rivers (find some shade around a bit of oxygenated water) and as we found yesterday it seems the Bass are starting to show on the estuaries.  More about that in a moment.

My guest for the last 3 days has been Simon Whitworth who originally visited me two years ago for a course.  Due to work commitments he had managed just 3 sessions since then so we started out with a casting refresher.  I have to say that Simon did not take long to get back into the swing of things and before long talk about the river began.

Simon Whitworth with an eleven inch wild Brown Trout form the River Exe

A bit better than fun size brown!

He took to the running water scene pretty quickly, nailing a palm sized fish on the first cast!  This was really in at the deep end stuff, casting under trees, controlling the line, watching out for drag and then having to make a cast.  All in the space of about 10 seconds.  By day 2 things just got better and our very last fish of the day was this little stunner which is above average at about 11 inches.  Taken on a gob full of a Sedge pitched into a back eddy under an overhanging branch.

The small stillwater Rainbows Simon had previously caught may have been bigger but as we chatted away about his experience so far it transpired (as I hear so often) that the size of the fish really didn’t matter.  It was the whole package.  The scenery.  The serenity.  The Take.  And of course the chance to witness these beautiful little fish in all their glory.

A River Exe Brown Trout nestled in the net prior to release

Who needs big when you can have beautiful?

We still had day 3 ahead of us; so what to do?  Simon did not need asking twice when I mentioned Bass.  This year they have been few and far between, so I explained that a blank was certainly possible, although if nothing else I could show him a few spots, the flies to use and who knows maybe the tide would deliver us a little bit of Summer Silver?

The first half of the session was as I expected. Hot, sticky and fishless, although within minutes of arriving I managed to spook a Bass of a good few pounds, hiding in some weed fronds just inches from the shore.  So at least there was one to catch!  Despite some cracking casts being thrown by Simon (remember this was just his 7th ever fly fishing session!)  …it didn’t bite.  With the tide changing it was time to rack up the rods and head for a new mark in the hope that the three pounder was not alone in the estuary.

Turns out it wasn’t …. as upon arriving we could see Gulls in a frenzy.  ”That’s Bass – guaranteed” I said and before long we had broken into a jog (thank god for breathable waders!) and were heading towards the activity.  The frustration as can be the case during these bait ball busts is that the fish were moving so fast, oh for a kayak, a float tube … even a set of arm bands.  And to add to the frustration a North Easterly was pushing across Simons shoulder making fly casting at best tricky.  Enter the lure rod.

Simon had never caught a Bass, so what should we do, hope that the fish came within casting range or chuck out a lure?  First cast he was smashed hard twice and then lost a fish on a Little Sammy skittered across the surface (I just couldn’t risk the last 2 Salt Skimmers that I have at the moment … and anyway I had left them at home!) before another chuck resulted in a super visual bust on the surface and this time … the fish was on!

Simon Whitworth displays a North Devon Bass

Fun sized Bass on a fun filled day

The first fish of any species is special and now Simon had three as the day before we had also picked up a nice size Grayling, which would be shown here if I had not locked the SD card and not noticed!  All good but what really pleased me more than anything was that Simon had seen now varied fishing can be.  One minute tucked away on a river wafting stealthy little casts under a tree at Trout sipping on the surface and the next stood in gin clear saltwater frantically casting at Bass smashing bait.  Does the size of the fish really matter during moments like this?

You may notice the black frames on these images, I’m not sure personally but will try a few more experiments with this iPad Snapseed software until I get it right.  I also have the May & June catch up to complete (as promised here) but right now I must admit that the typing is becoming a little more frantic as I think I am going to steal the afternoon and see if I can get into a Bass myself.  There were plenty of the fun size Basslets but I also watched a huge bust and aerial display from a fish that must have been 5lb, along with a further specimen that was even bigger.  Who knows, perhaps my next post will be Super sized?!

 

Nick Hart originally posted this on his blog on 12 July 2013. You can find more info on how to go fishing with Nick here.

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Dragonfly

Dragonfly near Chapman Burrows this afternoon. Photo by Twitchen Farm B&B

Dragonfly near Chapman Burrows this afternoon. Photo by Twitchen Farm B&B

Point to Point

Point to Point with the Exmoor Fox Hounds. Photo by Victoria Eveleigh

Point to Point with the Exmoor Fox Hounds at Bratton Down. Photo by Victoria Eveleigh

Getting the Swing of it!

301 Exmoor Adventures RockClimbing Honeymoon

 

Congratulations to newlyweds Owen & Karen who enjoyed a morning of Rock Climbing with Exmoor Adventures whilst on Honeymoon on Exmoor, before the rain came down!

Living on the Edge

102 Exmoor Adventures On the Rocks

 

If you’d like to experience the same view, then have a chat with Dan at Exmoor Adventures.

Girl Power

101 NT Arlington Court Girl Power

Meet Melody, Princess and Edwina who live at NT Arlington Court!

You can find out more about NT Arlington Court on their website:

Intriguing Regency house and impressive horse-drawn vehicles set in picturesque gardens

Arlington Court is an unexpected jewel on the edge of Exmoor, a complete family estate held by the Chichester family for over five hundred years. The collection consists of treasures for all tastes, from model ships to shells, all collected by the Chichesters’ over several generations. The house itself, built in 1823 and extended in 1860, has an austere facade. However, inside the cosy rooms give the house a homely, family atmosphere.

The Carriage Museum in the stables has a vehicle for every occasion from cradle to grave. Currently on loan from the Houses of Parliament is the Speaker’s State Coach, a glorious, gilded carriage with over 300 years of history.

Offering incident and contrast, the nineteenth-century formal garden is a perfect place to explore, picnic or play. The conservatory rebuilt in 2012 gives the garden a focal point and allows colourful and exotic planting. The walled kitchen garden provides fruit and vegetables for the tea-room and flowers for the house.

The tranquil estate with over 20 miles of footpaths is abundant with wildlife including an ancient heronry. Two species of bat roost in the cellars of the house whilst the bird hide is a quiet space to view nature at its best.

Keeping Arlington alive:

  • Jacob sheep and Red Devon cattle graze the estate and provide seasonal dishes for our menu

  • Our popular lake walk, just under two miles, tours the wider grounds including the man-made lake and bridge piers of an unfulfilled Victorian dream

  • Our stables are alive with carriage horses, giving the real smell and sound of working stables

  • Every visitor to the house is invited to ring the door bell, so they can be welcomed as a guest.

  • With our bat cam you can spy on the bats in our cellars and attics everyday

 

Starry, starry night….

104 Dan James Dark Skies on Dunkery Beacon

Photo by Dan James

 

 

To find out more about stargazing on Exmoor and its status as First International Dark Sky Reserve in Europe, go to the Exmoor National Park Website. There you can read the fully story and find out where to hire a telescope to make Exmoor’s starry nights an unforgettable event:

Exmoor’s Dark Skies


Exmoor National Park has been designated the first International Dark Sky Reserve in Europe! Click here for the full story 

To help you get the most from Exmoor’s dark skies we have produced a new Dark Skies Pocket Guide   –  download it  here or pick up a copy from one of our National Park Centres.

Exmoor National Park is home to some of the darkest skies in the country so it’s a great place to gaze at the stars. Good spots are Holdstone Hill, County Gate, Brendon Two Gates, Webbers Post, Anstey Gate, Haddon Hill and Wimbleball Lake.

On a clear night the night sky of Exmoor is simply stunning when many astronomical sights can be seen through the naked eye and even more can be discovered through a telescope or binoculars.

Look out for events that will help you discover more! Our National Park Centres stock planispheres and guides to the night sky, whilst the BBC StarGazing Live website has audio guides and star charts to download to help you enjoy the night sky.

New for 2013 –  Why not hire a telescope to help you explore Exmoor amazing dark skies. Contact one of our National Park Centres to find out how.

Exmoor Astro-timelapse video by www.vfilms.co.uk.